Dragon's Horns — South Tower
Batu Naga
★★★★
Edit
5.12a 300 m · 8 pitches
1 / 2
Pitches
- P8 — — To the summit ridge
- P7 — —
- P6 — —
- P5 5.11− —
- P4 5.12 — Dynamic crux
- P3 5.11+ — Technical crimps
- P2 5.11− —
- P1 5.11 —
Approach
From Kampung Mukut, take the Nenek Semukut trail to CP5 and branch onto the left-hand trail to the wall, then follow the base left past an old base camp (a water jug and a lantern mark it). Roughly 1–2 h from the village. See South Tower for the checkpoint system.
Character
“Stone Dragon”, up the south-facing white buttress. Serious: given 5.12R, with long runouts on easier ground.
Gear
Single set of cams to #3 Camalot, extra thin, 10+ slings, stoppers, 6 quickdraws, 2 ropes.
Be prepared for long runouts on easier ground, on bullet knobs and flakes.
Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.