Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Area H · Gunung Nenek Semukut

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

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The higher, left-hand fang above Kampung Mukut, and the most climbed piece of rock on the island. Ten routes span thirty years of first ascents — a 2000 aid line, Czech and Polish free climbing, an Iranian big wall, and Malaysian bolted multipitch.

From the route book
South Tower routes A–E, with the Polish Princess pitch topo at right. From the route book (David Kaszlikowski photo).
South Tower routes A–E, with the Polish Princess pitch topo at right. From the route book (David Kaszlikowski photo).
The two towers from the air (route book source page 28).
The two towers from the air (route book source page 28).
Typed route list and the 'both towers' photo with routes A–F (route book source page 31).
Typed route list and the 'both towers' photo with routes A–F (route book source page 31).
Expanded route list with first-ascent names (route book source page 38).
Expanded route list with first-ascent names (route book source page 38).
South Tower with three route lines and belay dots (route book source page 41).
South Tower with three route lines and belay dots (route book source page 41).
1 / 5
Approach
CP5 or CP7 from Mukut, 1–2 h
Aspect
South and south-west
Height
up to 400 m
Best
Mar–Apr, Aug — before 1 pm

Routes

Ordered as the source records them. Grades keep their original system. Compare across areas in the route finder.

Route Grade Length Pitches First ascent
Polish Princess ★★★★★ 7b+ 270 m 8 Eliza Kubarska & David Kaszlikowski
2011 Damai Sentosa ★★★★★ 6c+ 280 m 7 Stéphanie Bodet, David Kaszlikowski, Dan Liu Yong, Arnaud Petit, Tam Khairudin Haja
2013 Naga ★★★★ 6b+ 270 m 8 Fizi Ishak, Aril Hasril, Dorge @ Apek Langit Biru, Da Liu (Liu Yong)
2017 Sam Sam ★★★★ 7b 300 m 8 Eliza Kubarska & David Kaszlikowski
2010 Batu Naga ★★★★ 5.12a 300 m 8 Cedar Wright & Lucho Rivera
2011 Ironin 3 ★★★ 5.13b 485 m 12 Mahmoud Ghavidel, Ali Rostami, Hossan Ateffi, Nima Parsa, Nassrolah Taheri
2015 Waking Dream ★★★★ 7c+ 305 m 10 Nick Tomlin & Scotty Nelson
2000 Freebird ★★★★ 6a 230 m 7 Timothée Guillon, Nicolas Gay, Apull Shaiful Amin, Tam Khairudin Haja
2015 Muka No topo on record 7a+ 360 m — Martinek, Beneš, Sobotka
2010 Beckwith – Traver ★★★ 5.10 A3 400 m — Steve Beckwith & Matt Traver
2009 / 2011