Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

Freebird

★★★★

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6a 230 m · 7 pitches
First ascent
Timothée Guillon, Nicolas Gay, Apull Shaiful Amin, Tam Khairudin Haja
Year
2015
Area
South Tower
Descent
Abseil left onto Polish Princess
Freebird — photo topo with belays R1–R6 (route book source page 73).
Freebird — photo topo with belays R1–R6 (route book source page 73).
Freebird — FA topo, "Puncak Nenek Simukut, TD 6a IV 230 m" (route book source page 72).
Freebird — FA topo, "Puncak Nenek Simukut, TD 6a IV 230 m" (route book source page 72).
Freebird Direct — Izzu / Ridzuan / Raouf, June 2016 (route book source page 71).
Freebird Direct — Izzu / Ridzuan / Raouf, June 2016 (route book source page 71).
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Pitches
  1. P7 IV — Tree/jungle traverse to the top
  2. P6 6a 20 m Direct up the line above R5
  3. P5 6a 40 m Direct into the dyno crack — harder but better pro
  4. P4 5c — Traverse exactly on the loose slab, head right
  5. P3 5 — Pockets, slabby runs, flaring crack — creative placements
  6. P2 5c — Use long slings; better belay stance on the lower left
  7. P1 6a — Nice slab, 50–50 protection. Sketchy move 8 m up

Approach

From Mukut to CP7, then turn left and uphill – the same start as Puncak Anak and the Polish Princess cluster. Continue up to the foot of the tower.

Character

A slab and crack adventure route with runouts in beautiful rock — the friendliest serious line on the massif, and the most repeated by Malaysian teams. A direct variation was added in 2016.

Gear

2 racks of cams, set of nuts, 2 × 50 m ropes, lots of slings. Nothing in place.

Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.

Logbook & trip reports

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From the Mukut logbook Freebird Direct Izzu, Ridzuan, Raouf · 4 June 2016 Freebird Direct — 4th June 2016 — Izzu, Ridzuan, Raouf Pitch by pitch 1st pitch (6a): Nice slab with 50–50 protection. Sketchy move about 8 m from the ground. Easy traverse to the