Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

Ironin 3

★★★

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5.13b 485 m · 12 pitches
First ascent
Mahmoud Ghavidel, Ali Rostami, Hossan Ateffi, Nima Parsa, Nassrolah Taheri
Year
2015
Area
South Tower
Descent
Abseil the line
The Iranian route — clean photo topo, “mountains for peace, April 2015” (route book source page 55).
The Iranian route — clean photo topo, “mountains for peace, April 2015” (route book source page 55).
Ironin 3 — logbook page, team list and YDS pitch topo (route book source page 54).
Ironin 3 — logbook page, team list and YDS pitch topo (route book source page 54).
Ironin 3 — clean line topo with symbol legend (route book source page 56).
Ironin 3 — clean line topo with symbol legend (route book source page 56).
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Pitches
  1. R12 5.7 50 m To the summit
  2. R11 5.10a 25 m
  3. R10 5.11a 45 m
  4. R9 5.12b A2 —
  5. R8 5.13b A2 70 m The hardest pitch on the island
  6. R7 5.11b —
  7. R6 5.11c A2 50 m
  8. R5 5.11b A2 20 m
  9. R4 — 50 m Traverse
  10. R3 5.12d 40 m
  11. R2 5.10b 25 m
  12. R1 5.12 A2 —

Approach

Reach the South Tower base as for Waking Dream (CP5 / CP7 from Mukut, 1–2 h), then move right along the base. Ironin 3 starts just right of the Waking Dream line.

Character

“The Name of God” — the Iranian route, climbed under the banner Mountains for Peace. The longest line on the massif, free to 5.13b with A2 aid sections.

Gear

Big-wall rack: aid gear, hooks, double set of cams, 12 belays.

Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.

Logbook & trip reports

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Article · external link New route: In the Name of God / Ironin 3 (April 2015) Headlamps, Clusterfucks and Other Vertical Adventures · 2015